Will consumers have a beef with test-tube meat?

ANNE MCILROY
From Monday's Globe and Mail

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20060327.wxmeat27/BNStory/Science/home?pageRequested=all&print=true



Scientists can grow frog and mouse meat in the lab, and are now
working on pork, beef and chicken. Their goal is to develop an
industrial version of the process in five years.

If they succeed, cultured or in vitro meat could be coming to a
supermarket near you. Consumers could buy hamburger patties and
chicken nuggets made from meat cultivated from muscle cells in a
giant incubator rather than cut from a farm animal.

Home chefs could make meat in a countertop device the size of a
coffee maker. Before bed, throw starter cells and a package of growth
medium into the meat maker and wake up to harvest fresh sausage for
breakfast.

You could feel good about eating a healthy breakfast; the meat would
have the fat profile of salmon, not pork. One day, the truly
adventurous may be able to grow ostrich, wild boar, or other game.

First, however, meat researchers in the United States and the
Netherlands must find a way to replicate on an industrial scale a
process that works in a petri dish. The price will have to be right.
It is hard to imagine consumers paying more for an in vitro burger
than they pay for a regular one.

They will also have to overcome the "ick" reaction. Many find the
idea of cultured meat unappealing or downright disgusting. How would
it taste?

"I don't find it hard to believe that in vitro meat can be produced
that tastes like hamburger or chicken nuggets," said Jason Matheny,
one of the founders of Vive Research, a U.S. form working on growing
meat for the global market. Most of the flavour in burgers and
nuggets now sold in grocery stores or restaurants comes from
seasoning or filler, he said.

Researchers have succeeded in growing bits of meat, the type that
could be used in burgers or spaghetti sauce.

Growing a test-tube steak or pork roast will be more challenging,
said Henk Haagsman, professor of meat sciences at the University of
Utrecht. He is part of a team of Dutch researchers who are leading
the world in the meat-making field.

He and his colleagues grew mouse meat in their lab because the stem
cells they could turn into muscle fibres were easily available. Now
they are working on pork.

Australian researchers have grown muscle tissue from a frog, which
they served with Calvados sauce at an exhibition in France in 2003.
The frog steaks, they said, tasted like jelly on fabric.

In 2001, U.S. researchers, funded by the National Aeronautics and
Space Administration, grew muscle tissue from a goldfish -- a kind of
carp -- as part of an experiment on whether it is possible to grow
fish for astronauts on long space journeys. Morris Benjaminson and
his colleagues at Touro College in New York bathed pieces of goldfish
muscle in fetal bovine serum -- which contains growth factors that
spur muscle growth.

The fish muscle grew nearly 14 per cent over a few weeks. It smelled
normal, the researchers reported. But they didn't taste it.

NASA, however, has decided against space burgers -- fish or beef --
for astronauts on long missions.

This has cut off an important funding source for U.S. researchers
interested in cultured meat, said Vladimir Mironov, a tissue engineer
at the Medical University of South Carolina.

He said mass production of cultivated meat will be difficult, and
expensive, at the least in the short term. But smaller, countertop
bioreactors, or incubators, could more easily mimic the meat-making
experiments scientists have done in petri dishes.

"It would look like a coffee maker -- this is my dream," he said
wistfully. "No one wants to fund it."

One group, which he would not name, did offer him money, but they
wanted him to grow meat from human cells, so they could grow pieces
of themselves to eat.

"I don't want to participate in high-tech human cannibalism," he said
he told them.

Theoretically, he said, it would be possible. Researchers have
harvested human myoblasts, cells that can grow into muscle fibre.

Even without the stomach-turning notion of a human burger, cultured
meat is not an appetizing idea for many people.

"There is no demand," said Mr. Mironov, who came to the United States
from Russia. During the Cold War, he said, Soviet scientists
developed bacteria that could produce protein. But no one wanted to
eat the final product, because it smelled revolting.

Cultured meat burgers will probably taste and smell no different from
conventional products, Mr. Mironov said. Eventually, he said, the
world will need it.

"I believe it is inescapable."

A public educated about the benefits of in vitro meat might come
around to the idea, said Mr. Matheny, a doctoral student at the
University of Maryland.

Last year, he and other researchers published a paper on how to grow
affordable meat for the modern dinner table.

The health and environmental benefits could be significant, they
reported.

Cardiovascular disease and diabetes are associated with the
overconsumption of animal fats. Cultivated meats could be engineered
to be healthier.

"Using this technology, you could grow ground beef or pork or chicken
that had the fat profile of salmon. That would have an enormous
public health impact."

Cultured meat could also reduce the risk of diseases such as bovine
spongiform encephalitis -- or mad cow disease -- and avian flu.

Growing meat in an incubator would cut down on the cropland, water,
fertilizer, pesticides and energy now required to produce animals for
slaughter. It would also reduce the millions of tonnes of manure and
other waste produced every year in North America.

Demand for meat is growing in the developing countries, and
alternative animal farming might help meet that need, Mr. Matheny
said.

He and his fellow researchers established a non-profit, New Harvest,
as a clearinghouse for information on cultivated meat. Last month,
they set up Vive Research, which Mr. Matheny said is backed by angel
investors. It involves numerous skeletal muscle tissue engineers in
the United States, who plan to collaborate with the Dutch scientists.
They want to develop a technology to produce ground meat in vitro in
five years.

Most attempts to grow meat require cells cultured from an animal.
They can be stem cells, originally taken from an embryo, which can
develop into any kind of cell -- skin, bone or muscle fibre, for
example. The trick is coaxing them into muscle fibre with special
growth factors.

Cells known as myoblasts, which are on their way to becoming muscle
fibre, are also being used.

The Dutch researchers have embarked on a five-year state-funded
project to cost-effectively produce pig meat.

They face challenges. The first is to isolate the best starter cells
for meat production.

They also need to develop a culture medium that doesn't require fetal
bovine serum, a blood product extracted from embryonic calves that
has a seemingly magical power to make muscle cells grow.

Calf serum is expensive, costing $10,000 (U.S.) per kilogram of
cultured meat, according to one estimate. Using it doesn't make
sense, Dr. Haagsman said.

"It is ridiculous to make meat using meat products," he said. The
whole idea is to reduce the resources that now go into producing the
240 billion kilograms of meat humans around the world eat every year.

The scientists, from three universities in the Netherlands, are also
figuring out the best way to exercise muscle fibres to get them to
grow. Electrical stimulation works, but so does stretching, then
shrinking the fibres.

Taste is another issue. Scientists don't know whether lamb meat
tastes like lamb meat because of characteristics of its muscle cells.
Perhaps the flavour comes from the grass an animal grazes on, or the
food it is given to eat.

They should know in five years whether growing meat on an industrial
scale can be done, Dr. Haagsman said. He said he believes consumers
are open-minded enough to try cultured meat.

Modern farm factories, he said, have essentially turned animals into
meat-producing machines. And avian influenza and other diseases may
drive consumers away from conventional sources.

He is hopeful that vegetarians, or partial vegetarians, would give
cultivated meat a try.

Charles Miller, part-owner of the Green Door Vegetarian Restaurant in
Ottawa, said he wouldn't try a bite.

"It is still an animal product," he said. "I wouldn't touch it. I
wouldn't eat it.''

Churchill predicted it

An idea whose time has finally come? In 1932, Winston Churchill
predicted that in five decades, people would be eating cultured meat.

"Fifty years hence, we shall escape the absurdity of growing a whole
chicken in order to eat the breast or wing by growing these parts
separately under a suitable medium."

Researchers say he might have been inspired by Nobel Prize winner
Alexis Carrel, who put a hunk of heart muscle cut from a chicken
embryo in a bowl of nutrients and kept it alive for more than 30
years.

In the past few years, scientists have grown more than meat in their
labs. In 2002, researchers in Japan reported they had grown tadpole
eyeballs from scratch. In 2003, scientists in the United States
announced that they had successfully grown a rabbit penis in the lab.

Anne McIlroy

How to make your own meat

Vladimir Mironov, a tissue engineer at the Medical University of
South Carolina, wants to build a device the size of a coffee maker
that would allow people to grow meat in their kitchens.

Here is how it might work.

1. Myoblasts, immature cells that develop into muscle fibre, would be
harvested from a pig, cow, chicken or turkey and cultured.

2. Cooks could buy these starter cells, and add them to a growth
medium, which would contain water, sugar, salt vitamins, amino acids
and growth factors that would stimulate them to reproduce.
(Scientists now use fetal bovine serum, but say they would have to
come up with a product that was more affordable).

3. The mixture would be put into a counter top incubator, where it
would be warmed to encourage growth.

4. The cells would develop into muscle fibre.

5. Hours later, small pieces of meat could be harvested, washed and
cooked, either in a patty or a sauce.